A friend of Don and Renata Frediani served them this almost Chinese-tasting “pollo al latte” in Italy. Each year brings a fresh supply of recipes spilling from the Fredianis’ Alitalia bag — crêpes with chopped spinach in the batter, for instance, to roll around pieces of smoked salmon, or a puff pastry red onion tart with the onions and pancetta browned in olive oil and white wine. Or consider a Flemish salad of slivered cabbage, celery and carrots in a mustard vinaigrette.
The latest revelations: baby artichokes cooked in chicken broth, and chicken with a thin pancetta casing roasted in parchment (which you should open 30 minutes before serving). Lemon Milk Chicken with its Asian overtones you might want to eat with chopsticks.
Skin boneless chicken breasts, cut them into cubes, flour them well and brown without fat; drain off any fat that accumulates. Now add 2/3 cup of milk, the juice of 1/2 a large lemon, a little rosemary and pepper and simmer all, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently: you want a sauce with a consistency just past thin.
Serve Lemon Milk Chicken in cupped plates, or even soup bowls, scattered over stepping-stone slices of fried potatoes — “broasted” potatoes, actually, which are made by boiling rather thin potato slices until they’re almost done, then transferring them to a large skillet and slowly sautéing them in a little butter, turning them often, until they’re rather crisp . . . if you have a space problem in the skillet, push the first installment to the side, drop in a bit more butter and “broast” a second batch.
See new stylings and alterations to the recipe in Places & Tables, “Tidbits of Summer ’09”