LEMON MILK CHICKEN FREDIANI

        A friend of Don and Renata Frediani served them this almost Chinese-tasting “pollo al latte” in Italy. Each year brings a fresh supply of recipes spilling from the Fredianis’ Alitalia bag — crêpes with chopped spinach in the batter, for instance, to roll around pieces of smoked salmon, or a puff pastry red onion tart with the onions and pancetta browned in olive oil and white wine. Or consider a Flemish salad of slivered cabbage, celery and carrots in a mustard vinaigrette.

        The latest revelations: baby artichokes cooked in chicken broth, and chicken with a thin pancetta casing roasted in parchment (which you should open 30 minutes before serving). Lemon Milk Chicken with its Asian overtones you might want to eat with chopsticks.

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Skin boneless chicken breasts, cut them into cubes, flour them well and brown without fat; drain off any fat that accumulates. Now add 2/3 cup of milk, the juice of 1/2 a large lemon, a little rosemary and pepper and simmer all, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently: you want a sauce with a consistency just past thin.

Serve Lemon Milk Chicken in cupped plates, or even soup bowls, scattered over stepping-stone slices of fried potatoes — “broasted” potatoes, actually, which are made by boiling rather thin potato slices until they’re almost done, then transferring them to a large skillet and slowly sautéing them in a little butter, turning them often, until they’re rather crisp . . . if you have a space problem in the skillet, push the first installment to the side, drop in a bit more butter and “broast” a second batch.

See new stylings and alterations to the recipe in Places & Tables, “Tidbits of Summer ’09”

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