A crunchy childhood souvenir, also associated with Thanksgiving. My childhood, in fact, was filled with dark brown zeppelins rolled out by my mother or Hoi our in-house gratiné expert: minced salmon croquettes, veal croquettes, rice croquettes with a shaking crown of currant jelly on top. I loved them all — and am now a little wary of such potentially gummy yummies. Meanwhile we confront the renaissance of the fritter!
And old Thanksgivings come into focus, the wartime one for instance when a lonely serviceman was sent out to our house by the USO and Mummy choked on his unseemly anti-FDR spiel.
Peel and boil 1 sweet potato per serving until they’re soft but not mushy; then mash the potatoes until they’re free of lumps, adding lots of butter, a little orange juice and some grated orange rind.
Now add enough milk and cream to achieve the consistency of stiff mashed potatoes; when the mashing is done refrigerate your “dough” for several hours. Shape the potatoes into patties, dip them in fine breadcrumbs, beaten egg, and crumbs again, then fry them in hot vegetable oil and drain afterwards on paper towels.
The color of these croquettes should be dark brown, like oldtime filet of sole when it was done properly.