And here is our version of the piquant Colombian soup we ate at a vibrant little tapas palace in San Francisco’s gastronomically formidable Mission District — off a tabletop suggesting perhaps too vividly the spots of a leopard.


Save a piece or more of chicken, some carrot and all the remaining broth from our Boiled Chicken and Vegetables. Skim the fat off the broth, heat it and cook in it the kernels of a small ear of corn. Then skin and bone the chicken, cut it into juliennes and warm them in the soup for a minute or so.

To complete the ensemble, top the chicken-and-broth in each diner’s bowl with a little yogurt, avocado chunks and small capers to taste, and serve with a relish-like, minimally liquid salsa verde made with small amounts of olive oil and red wine vinegar (about 2 to 1) along with a little minced onion and rather a lot of parsley rat-tat-tatted into mince with a big sharp knife such as you see on the TV cooking shows.


        And was it sprouts or a second-rate slaw Leonida Frediani from her verdant mountain top dismissed as “lawn trimmings”?

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